Collecting


The Ship of Theseus
It must be said that you are almost always better off buying a complete helmet with all of its pieces present and accounted for, rather than trying to find the odd original badge or chinstrap sometime later on. This is especially true for Pickelhauben where, when they can be found, individual cockades will command prices from $75-$100 and original chinstraps often exceed $150. Reproductions too are items that are often handmade in Europe or the U.S. and can be quite expensive. Much akin to restoring a classic automobile, you will inevitably end up spending more on the pieces required to complete a helmet than you would have spent on a complete helmet.
At some point, you will also have to decide what level of originality is acceptable to you. One might find a beautiful, original helmet shell with a perfect chinstrap, yet missing its liner. Should the liner be replaced with a reproduction? Should you see if you can hunt down an original, period liner? Should the helmet be left as you found it? Or, is the helmet condition simply not good enough because it’s missing the liner? I can’t tell you which is the right answer. What I can say is that pieces on which every part is original command the highest prices and are the best investments for a collector, but that should be fairly obvious.
For me, personally, I don’t think that every single rivet or buckle has to 100% original to make a helmet a worthwhile addition to a collection. Original paint is usually a must, as are any badges, but a quality reproduction chinstrap or liner may be acceptable depending upon the condition of the shell and the rarity of the helmet. I also try to take a middle-ground by not affecting a helmet’s original, as-found state with anything that cannot be easily undone without damaging the piece. In the situation described above, for example, I might procure an accurate reproduction liner for display purposes, but not attach it permanently to the helmet shell.

The C-word
As with any antique, military or otherwise, condition is king. Personally, I don't necessarily collect with investment in mind; I buy what I like and this yields enjoyment enough. That said, it is always those pieces that are complete and in the best condition that have the greatest value and will appreciate most dramatically in the future. As you gain more experience and your collection becomes more advanced, no doubt a great deal of your time spent hunting for helmets will be devoted to finding better examples of pieces you already possess. An important thing to consider is that a common helmet in an uncommon condition is a rare helmet. Few things in the collecting world can surpass the jubilation of finally acquiring a long-sought piece in a condition that cannot be upgraded.
Relic condition refers to helmets that have either been battlefield-dug or those which seem to have spent the last hundred years in a damp garage. They will be extremely rusty, pitted, missing pieces and usually full of holes. They have essentially no value to the collector outside of being an object of some curiosity.
Any helmet shell that is exceptionally rusty or has been repainted should be considered a “junk helmet”. To call any helmet of the Great War junk may seem harsh but, at least from the collector’s standpoint, that’s what we’ll have to consider them, except in certain circumstances where the helmet is extremely rare and desirable in any condition. These helmets will generally have little or no value to a collector. However, that is not to say that junk helmets have no value or no place in your collection -they can serve several purposes: First, they can fill a void until a better example can be found. Second, because condition is no longer a factor, these helmets can be handled rather than merely displayed. Third, if you do the restoration yourself, you will gain some valuable insight on what reproduction parts are available and indications that any future helmet may have been worked on or artificially aged.

It’s Not a Lie If You Believe It
The manufacture of reproduction parts is quite literally a cottage industry that has grown up alongside this hobby and by this time most any part you might need can be purchased new online. This is generally to be considered a good thing, at least insofar as display is concerned, and it can be fulfilling when a helmet is sort-of “made whole again”, even when an original part would be impossible to obtain. However, as you can imagine, the danger is when a reproduction crosses over into being a fake designed to deceive. And, unfortunately, with demand and, therefore, prices for Great War pieces on the rise, this is becoming more and more common.
I have heard that each year on eBay will emerge perhaps two genuine SS helmets. All the rest are fakes. Fakes in this hobby primarily take the form of the addition of battlefield camouflage or divisional/regimental insignia to a period helmet. Also, sometimes will be found artificially aged leather liners and chinstraps, particularly on Stahlhelm, and they can be quite convincing unless you know what to look for. Pickelhauben as well suffer from the addition of fake cockades, chinstraps, spikes and wappen. It can be a discouraging situation, especially when you’re just starting out. I have noted things to be aware of in this regard for each helmet in their respective sections.
Mostly, I think, you will encounter sellers who are simply unaware of the complete authenticity of a piece, rather than those deliberately out to deceive. Others sell obvious fakes week in and week out and there seems almost an unspoken acceptance of the practice within the community for certain dealers (perhaps it’s a devil you know-type situation). In any case, deals and discounts in this hobby simply do not exist. If a price seems abnormally low for a given item, either for sale or at auction, there is usually a good reason other collectors aren’t biting.

A Few Words About eBay
For better or for worse, eBay will probably be the place that you are most likely to begin when starting your collection. The good news is that the selection of new pieces is very fresh and you can easily track auctions of similar pieces over time to get a sense of their value in the marketplace and some idea of what you might spend for a given piece.
The bad news is that it is the Wild West when it comes to what and how something is offered, with often inconsistent (aspirational) pricing and sometimes dubious authenticity. You will see auctions that are poorly described, sellers not knowing what they have and sellers deliberately trying to deceive. It is absolutely essential that you know what you are looking at, even when the seller may not. With a good eye and a little luck there can be some deals to be had, but as with anything, if you have doubts about a piece it is usually better to move on.

Documenting Your Collection
Keep a record of when, where, and for how much you acquired each helmet, as well as any cleaning you may have done or reproduction parts you may have added to it. Include notes on any manufacture’s marks, soldiers’ names or unit information, unusual findings and any research you have done on a particular piece.